India Elevated

A community from Elevated India

How to travel India in luxury

When to come. Where to go. Where to stay, and what is worth the money. Answered in the open, under their own names, by the people who plan these journeys for a living.

What this is

A room where the questions actually get answered

Most of what is written about travelling in India is written to sell you a journey, or by somebody who was here for nine days. This is a third thing.

It is a standing room where the people who plan these journeys for a living answer the questions in public, under their own names, including the ones with inconvenient answers. Ask whether a month is a mistake and you will be told that it is.

It is run by the curators at Elevated India. They are not a support desk and they are not anonymous.

The colonnaded verandah of a Rajasthani palace hotel at dusk

Where it stands

88posts
22rooms
When should I come?Is monsoon really a washout?Palace or haveli?How many nights in Rajasthan?Is the Taj worth a dawn start?Can I drink the water?What do I tip, and when?Cards or cash?Which month for Ladakh?Is Varanasi too much for a first trip?How cold is a north Indian dawn?Luxury train or private car?Where are the tigers in April?What do I wear to a temple?May I photograph people?Is Kerala a different trip entirely?How long is too long in one hotel?What is worth paying extra for?Do I need a visa in advance?Which two nights deserve the best room?

Latest from the rooms

Karnataka and Kerala — Mysore, Ooty and Munnar over sixteen daysThe hill route through the south, which almost nobody asks for by name. Mysore then Ooty then Munnar is three different sets of hills in one line, and the driving between them is NSNikhil Sharma · Journeys · 5hIndia is not visited. India is felt.Thirty-five seconds, and the sentiment is doing less work than it looks. The practical version of that line is this — the trips people rate highest here are not the ones with the NSNikhil Sharma · The Journal · 1dGolden Triangle and Nepal — Agra, Jaipur, Kathmandu and Pokhara over sixteen daysTwo countries, one trip, and the join is easier than it sounds. Delhi to Kathmandu is under two hours in the air, which is why this combination exists at all. What it buys you is NSNikhil Sharma · Journeys · 2dCrafted by hand and carried through generationsTwenty-seven seconds in a Rajasthani workshop. Block printing, blue pottery, bandhani, stone inlay — these are living trades here rather than heritage displays, and the workshops NSNikhil Sharma · Rajasthan · 3dCentral India tiger safari — Bandhavgarh, Kanha and Pench over twelve daysThree parks in twelve days, which is the serious version of a wildlife trip here. One park is a gamble. Three parks across twelve days is a different proposition entirely, and it NSNikhil Sharma · Journeys · 4dPeople of IndiaTwenty-nine seconds of faces. Every piece of feedback we have ever had about an India trip eventually arrives at the same place — not the monument, the person who showed it to youNSNikhil Sharma · The Journal · 5d

Why this exists

India has built a tourism economy at home. It has not yet claimed its place in the world's imagination. Ten million foreign arrivals a year against France's hundred. Seventh in the world by arrivals and thirty-ninth on the index that measures how ready a country is to receive them.

Part of that gap is infrastructure and part of it is policy. A large part of it is simply that the country is hard to plan well from the outside. What a visitor finds is either a brochure or somebody's backpacking blog from 2011, and between those two there is almost nothing written for a traveller willing to spend properly and unwilling to waste the trip.

That space is what this is for. Closing even part of the gap is the work.

What you get here

Four things a brochure cannot do.

Answers with a name on them

Every answer is signed by the curator who gave it. No house voice, no support ticket, no reply written by somebody who has never been.

Judgement rather than listings

Which month is a mistake. Which two nights deserve the extraordinary room. Where the money stops buying anything at all.

Asked and answered in the open

One question answered once, where the next person can find it. Nothing useful gets buried in a private thread.

Before you have booked anything

You do not have to be travelling with us. You do not have to be travelling at all yet. The rooms are open either way.

The country is not one journey

It is a thousand worlds, on several different calendars, and choosing badly between them does more damage than anything else you will decide.

Lamps raised during the evening aarti on the Ganges at Varanasi

Ask a curator

Put the question to somebody who plans these for a living

Questions are answered in the open, so one answer serves everybody who comes looking later. You will get a name, a view, and where there is no single right answer you will get that too.

The curators are Elevated India staff. That is stated rather than hidden, because an answer is only worth anything when you know who is giving it and why.

A craftsman at work in his own workshop

Four kinds of place

Where you sleep shapes the trip more than almost anything else you choose. These are the four, and they are not ranked.

The palace

A former royal residence, now a hotel. Scale, ceremony and a certain amount of theatre. Marvellous for two or three nights and heavy for ten.

The haveli

A merchant's townhouse in the old quarter. Courtyards rather than lawns. You are inside the city rather than above it.

The camp

Canvas, but not camping. Put up for the season beside a park or out in the desert. Some of the best rooms in India are tents.

The lodge

Near a wildlife park and built around early mornings. Judged on its naturalists far more than its furniture.

Before you join

Do I have to be travelling with Elevated India?

No. The rooms are open to anybody planning India, or thinking about it, or simply curious. Most of what is written here applies whoever ends up arranging the trip.

What does it cost?

Nothing. Joining is free and there is nothing to buy here. The journeys Elevated India runs have their own room and are not the point of the rest of it.

Who actually answers?

The curators at Elevated India, under their own names and their real role lines. You can see who has written what on any member's page.

Is this just marketing?

It is run by Elevated India and does not pretend otherwise. What it is not is a brochure in disguise: the rooms are about travelling India well, and a good answer is sometimes one that costs us a booking.

When is the best time to come?

There is no single answer, and anybody who gives you one is describing Rajasthan and calling it the country. The When to Travel room takes it season by season.

Join India Elevated

Free to join, open to read, and answered by name. Ask your first question in Ask a Curator.