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A post by Gulab Singh

Gulab Singh1hRajasthan

Four forts is three too many

By the fourth fort they stop being different. This is not a failure of the forts and it is not a failure of you. It is a failure of sequencing.

What actually happens on a standard Rajasthan route is Amber, Mehrangarh, Chittorgarh, Kumbhalgarh, the city palace at Udaipur and the fort at Jaisalmer, in eleven days, with a guide at each explaining a dynasty you have no scaffolding for yet.

Two changes fix it.

Pick two forts and do them properly, with a guide who is actually good, for two and a half hours each rather than fifty minutes. Mehrangarh with the audio guide is one of the best-presented historic sites anywhere, and it rewards a slow morning.

Then let everything else be something other than a fort. A stepwell at the right hour. A block-printing workshop where somebody shows you the indigo vat. A village where lunch is cooked in front of you. A bazaar at seven in the morning.

Variety is not a compromise on a heritage trip. It is what makes the heritage land.

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